How To: Train A Climbing Rose

Climbing roses grow two kinds of shoots. The main shoot is structural whereas the flowering shoots are for flowering. It is essential for the main shoot(s) to be tied to a support to keep the flowers off the  ground. 

Roses require 6+ hours of sun in the growing season and good soil for optimum growth. 

1. Install The Support And Trellis

Anchor the support posts in the ground or attach them to another strong structure such as a fence. The roses can become heavy when wet and blown around. The trellis should be placed and attached firmly against the posts. It is best to keep a small air gap between fences or walls and the trellis to ensure good circulation. 

2. Plant The Roses

The hole for the roses should be 1.5-2 times as wide as the root ball. The depth needs to be at least two feet deep. This may seem like a lot but as the plant becomes more developed, the roots will need all the nutrients they can get. 

The center of the hole needs to be 20-30 inches away from the trellis. In cold climates, plant the graft union 2-6 inches below the soil and in warm climates 1-3 inches above the soil. 

3. Watering And Fertilising

Water the plant very well! Spread compost or manure and phosphorus rich fertiliser around the base of the plant and water again. Mulching the base of the plant is optional but can help maintain the moisture in the soil. 

4. Attach The Shoots

Locate and select the strongest structural shoots and tie them to the trellis or support. It is important not to tie them too tight. By placing the shoots horizontally, it will promote more fresh growth. 

Notes:

The climber can go unpruned for two-three years before needing pruning. 

Remove dead, diseased or damaged shoots. 

When And What You Should Prune: A Pruning Guide

Where To Start?

A perfect place to start is to remove dead, diseased, or damaged stems as soon as you see them. Dead branches and stems attract harmful insects that increase the chance for disease. 

Another great place to start is to remove branches that are rubbing together and upright shoots growing off the trunks. 

Annual Flowers

By removing the dead or faded heads (deadheading) of flowers, the plant is able to put more energy into blooming, therefore improves growth. 

If the plant develops bare stems at the base, remove the stem and it will force the plant to grow more compact. 

Perennial Flowers

By deadheading the flowers, the look of them will be significantly improved. It is also a good idea to deadhead the flowers if they are too leggy or starting to bend out from the middle of the plant. 

A benefit of this is that most perennials will be able to push out another bloom cycle before deadheading again. 

Deciduous Fruit Trees

Apples, crabapples, plums, peaches, cherries and pears should all be pruned in midwinter. This has been debated in the past due to removing some of the buds but the goal is to open the tree to more light and allow for a better crop of fruit rather that maximum bloom. 

It is essential to prune a lot of fruit trees in winter because the plant is dormant therefore at less of a risk of bacterial disease. 

Roses

Prune roses and climbers that bloom annually after they finish blooming. 

There are several roses that bloom repeatedly. Prune these to your own custom shape and always remove damaged and diseased branches. 

Shaped or Clipped Hedges

Buxus, privet and other shrubs are often trimmed to form a hedge. To form a wall or solid hedge, trimming several times when the new growth is coming through will make a big difference. It is essential not to have the top wider than the base as it will shade the lower branches. 

A Few Quick Tips on Hedge Cutting

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It can be quite easy if you use a guideline. This is basically a line you attach to two ends of the hedge and follow along with your cutters. This will allow a straight cut.

We all know that feeling of dreading to do something. A lot of us dread cutting the hedge because it is so hard to cut straight and still look nice.



Another good tip is to cut 6 branches and then step back and look from a distance. Why 6? I'm not sure, but it just seems like a good number. If you cut it in small amounts, step back, check from a distance then you will be able to see what needs to be cut. This also allows you to shape the hedge into different (non-straight) shapes.

Had to throw this one in from tradesman4u.wordpress.com. Its great!

A key tip to start with is to check just under the branches to identify where there are and aren't leafy branches. If there are small amounts of leaves or woody structures under the branches then avoid cutting down to the woody stuff yet. It will grow leaves if cut but best to cut this part when nobody is due to come over. It has to look nice for visitors!